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Use of the Warping Wheel

To begin ...

1.) Position your cones (or other warp threads) on a cone caddie (or rack) on the floor. Simply put, make sure your threads are ready to be unwound and placed on the Warping Wheel.

2.) Determine the length you want your warp. Remember that the outer position on the spokes equals a three yard revolution and the inner position equals a two yard revolution.

Example: if you wanted a fifteen yard warp, you would set the blocks to the outer three yard position. Three yard revolution times five revolutions equals a fifteen yard warp.

NOTE: The Spool on the spoke that has the Metal Catch Clip does not move.

3a.) When attaching the raddle at the top of the Warping Wheel, make sure the pin goes in from the back to front, so that the hoop is behind the raddle, then it won't get in your way.

3b.) Open the top of the mini raddle by releasing the clips on both sides. NOTE: the Mini-Raddle is DESIGNED to be slightly wider than its bottom -- this is by design so that the catch clips work!

Take the raddle top and hang it on the end of the raddle support arm.

4.) Reset the revolution counter to zero.

5.) Securing the thread(s).
a.) Slide the thread(s) under the metal catch clip, tails facing to the left.

b.) Bring the thread(s) up the right side of the spoke back over the spool at the top of the same spoke, so that you are ready to wind the Warping Wheel in a COUNTERCLOCKWISE motion.

6.) Grab the handle with your left hand and hold the thread(s) with your right.

Winding on ...

7.) Turn the wheel COUNTERCLOCKWISE. Wind on one length of your warp. (From the example above, that would be five revolutions to equal a fifteen yard length).

8.) After you have wound on one length ...
a.) Bring the thread(s) from behind the raddle.
b.) Bring the thread(s) through A FEW DENTS FROM THE FAR RIGHT (you will be working your way left).

c.) Then down OVER (in front of or on top of ... that is, between you and the yarn) the YARN YOU JUST WOUND and under the clip.

d.) And then repeat the process for your next length. TIP: so that the threads unwind easily later, each length should progress from back to front. SO push the threads toward the back (toward the raddle side).

9.) When you are done winding on the section, secure the thread(s) under the catch clip.

10.) Tying off ...
a.) Put the raddle top back on the raddle.
b.) Cut all the threads in the section between the raddle and the spool above the clip. Try to cut as close to the spool as possible so that you'll have a good amount of yarn to hang on to.

c.) Slip the threads through the crossing threads and hold on to them ... tightly. This is important so that the threads do not slip back through the raddle.
d.) Secure the threads at the clip with ONE MORE WRAP; so that they won't move.

From Warping Wheel to Sectional Beam ...

11.) Pull the security pin that holds the mini raddle in place out. Carry the entire raddle with the threads to the front pivoting mount. Secure the raddle in this new position with the same pin. Pull out a bit more yarn and tie a knot so that the yarn won't slip back through.

12.) Pivot the raddle to adjust the width of the section to fit exactly in-between the pegs on your sectional beam.

13.) Take the extension cord from your beam. Create larkshead loop at its end and loop it around the knotted end of your warp section.

14.) Adjust the tension of the wheel by squeezing on the black knob to loosen or pull on the cords to tighten. Once you set the tension, leave it that way for all the warp sections so you will have even tension throughout.

15.) Tear a piece of masking tape and set it aside on the raddle support arm.

16.) Wind you warp onto the sectional beam.

17.) Before the last part of the threads pass from the cord catch through the raddle, tape the threads on the loom-side of the raddle (between the raddle and the Sectional Beam) in their sequence using the masking tape. This will help you keep the threads in order when you thread the harness.

Repeat this process for every section of your sectional beam.

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